Trail update #1
I'm writing to you from the Refuge de Batere which means in the past five days, we've walked 87 kilometers and climbed more than 5,000 meters, in both respects about 10% of our total over the entire GR10. So we're feeling pretty good about our progress, especially because we expect to cover more ground in the coming weeks as we become conditioned to the terrain.
The trail itself has been a delight so far: exceptionally well marked and maintained. Also delightful: we've encountered a stunning variety of wildflowers and picked wild cherries and strawberries as we walked along.
Less delightful: food is going to be a challenge. The main issue is that grocery stores, even small ones, are few and very far between. For example, we resupplied this morning at a corner SPAR in Arles-sur-Tech. (Never have I been so happy to see a SPAR.) The next grocery store is 90 kilometers down the trail. (Well, there is a small epicerie between here and there but it's apparently closed Mondays and Tuesdays which is exactly when we'll pass through.) In practical terms, this means we have to carry a lot of very heavy food. Our usual backpacking fare is almost entirely dehydrated or freeze-dried but exactly none of that is available at SPAR. This morning, Brian and I debated the relative merits of carrying, for example, cans of tuna. (Verdict: yes. Also: ugh.)
To avoid the situation of literally carrying five days worth of canned goods up and down several mountains, we may end up staying in more manned refuges and gites d'etapes than previously planned. And I have to say, from where I sit, here on the refuge's comfortable terrace, overlooking the Pyrenees and drinking a glass of local red wine, perhaps that's just fine.
