Radical hospitality

As a younger Christian, I chafed when people used my (hear that?) religious sites for tourism and photo opportunities. Get your own sacred space, I groused. (And get off my lawn!) Over years, I relaxed about this a bit. Still, watching tourists stalk absentmindedly through historic churches, stopping only to take selfies in front of stained glass windows or centuries old crucifixes kinda … bugged me.

Hypocrisy much?

Impressive stupa at the Royal Palace

Fast forward to this year. Now the religious tourist is me and all along the way, I’ve been nourished by the hospitality of other religious folks, some from my own tradition and some pretty far from it.

Outside Wat Phra Kaew where the Emerald Buddha is housed

I visited Roman churches in Croatia and orthodox congregations and monasteries in Greece, some previously accessible only via precarious ropes and pulleys. At the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, I was discreetly offered a disposable scarf for my head and saw ancient Christian mosaics — the mosque was previously a cathedral — lovingly retained. Also in Istanbul, I attended mass at an expat church; a Nigerian priest and a Filipino choir offered me sanctuary, offered me Christmas. In Rwanda, we listened in on Christian services in Kinyarwandan while church elders were called out of worship to help us find our way on the Congo Nile Trail. And in Fish Hoek, I sank gratefully into the hominess of the local Anglican community.

Sam at Wat Pho, home of an enormous reclining Buddha. You can see his slack jaw from the back.

All of this came to a head for me two days ago when we visited Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a spectacular Buddhist temple dating to the 14th century. The temple is located on a mountaintop 12 kilometers outside of Chiang Mai; we rode in the back of a dusty red songthaew from the city center, bumping along as the road wound uphill, higher and higher. The temple itself is accessible via a long staircase with dramatic dragons undulating along its length.

Steps leading up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Closer look at the gorgeous dragon along the steps to the temple

At the top, we removed our shoes and let our eyes adjust to the near blinding light. Once acclimated we peeked into the first door that presented itself: a lovely temple room with a now-familiar collection of likenesses of the Buddha against one wall, the remaining walls entirely covered in paintings depicting his epic story.

A gleaming stupa at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Elephant outside Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

To one side in the room, a jolly monk in traditional orange robes was blessing two bowing pilgrims. We instinctively hung back; surely this reverent scene wasn’t meant for us. But the monk caught sight of us, peering in at the doorway, and beaming widely, he motioned for us to, you know, come on in! Get comfortable! So we did. Kneeling before the monk, we shyly asked novice questions about Buddhism for several unhurried minutes. He cheerfully answered our questions by narrating the murals that encircled the room and offered us a warm blessing. He reminded us to request white bracelets for good luck from a fellow monk across the stupa as part of our visit to Doi Suthep. In everything he said and did, we felt his welcome.

Sam at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

As we continued to tour the temple complex, emboldened by the monk’s unconditional hospitality, I wondered: what would all those historic churches and cathedrals feel like for visitors of every faith if a priest was stationed at the front door, smiling with radiant sincerity, offering orientation and blessing, offering hospitality? I feel equal parts ashamed of my old attitude and inspired to practice religious hospitality myself. Why don’t we Christians do that?

In other news, we’re officially coming back to California in August. 75% of us have firm plans for work or school (the guys); 25% of us are lagging a bit behind but likely to catch up (um, me). Since I’m in the bottom quartile I can brag on them a little: both kids were admitted to their first choice schools and Brian lined up a terrific new job via a handful of texts. Nicely done, all.

Congrats to this kid! High school bound :)