The magic of two weeks
Since leaving Oregon in August, we’ve done a few longer apartment stays of about two weeks each: a farmhouse in County Wexford, an apartment in Dubrovnik, a cottage in Kastraki and most recently, a cozy three-story row house in Beyoğlu, a bohemian neighborhood in Istanbul. After having done it several times, I can say: two weeks is the just-right amount of time to spend in a single place. A week in a place affords you the chance to get your bearings. A week is enough time to navigate winding streets with confidence, eat at the same restaurant more than once, maybe worship at the same church more than once, learn to express gratitude and contrition and to count to ten, fall into a comfortable rhythm with a nearby coffee shop or bakery, and smile with friendly recognition at neighbors and vendors. But the second week is where the magic happens, because you get to actually sink into that homey familiar feeling and enjoy it. And, in my experience, just as the second week is up, it seems a good time to move on.
All of which is to say, our two weeks in Istanbul were a treasure.
Our house in Beyoglu, conveniently a few steps from a great cappuccino
Home turf
As dreamy as they come
Taksim Square, just up the hill from our house
Depending on the exchange rate, tavuk durum (shaved chicken wrapped in flat bread) could be had for between $1 and $3
Approaching the Galata Bridge to cross the Golden Horn into old town Istanbul
A view from Galata bridge
Sam and Joe approach the neighborhood mosque
Inside the Hagia Sofia; Brian was not impressed with my scarf skills
Sam in front of the Blue Mosque
Shopping at the Grand Bazaar
View from the Galata Bridge at dusk
Galata Tower; we didn’t actually go up; sharing a small elevator up nine stories didn’t seem like the super best Covid prevention strategy
Istiklal Avenue
Merry Christmas! And yet another use for leukotape
Brian and I took the metro and then a long taxi ride to the Black Sea
As it proved impossible to hail a taxi here, we ended up taking the bus back (the very long way) to Istanbul
Me at Galata Port
Dream car
Rough life
Our last night in Istanbul
Sunrise over the Bosphorus on our last day
On Thursday we flew from Istanbul to Cairo to Kigali where we are now, waiting out our three day mandatory quarantine. So far we’ve tested negative for Covid twice (once in Istanbul and once in the airport in Kigali) and will do another test tomorrow before being sprung from quarantine. We’re planning to rent a car and drive southwest to Nyungwe Forest National Park for birdwatching and — what else? — camping. After that we’ll hit the Congo Nile Trail for … more camping. On to Volcanoes National Park, famed for gorilla trekking, which we are variously too young (Sam and Joe) and too cheap (Emilee and Brian) to do, but where we hope to climb mountains and … camp. Finally, Akagera National Park for a self driving safari punctuated by … camping.
Hopefully (via the Galen Rowell effect) some great pictures will be forthcoming.
