Trail update #4
We did it!
We averaged 20 kilometers a day toward the end and hiked the last two weeks or so without a rest day to finish a day earlier than planned. Fortunately the terrain in Pays Basque was somewhat less difficult than the terrain in Hautes-Pyrénées and Ariège, so that was helpful. It was also helpful that we avoided the worst of the recent European heat wave; during the very high temperatures, we were hanging out at higher altitudes and once we descended into the Basque foothills, the weather (mostly) cooperated.
We saw the Atlantic for the first time about three days before we hit Hendaye. We maybe might have screamed for joy :)
After that, it was all downhill, at least psychologically. But also it was mostly downhill, actually.
Now that I’ve had a few days to reflect, I’ve just got this to say about the Pyrénées: you need to see this place. If you’re not the backpacking sort, head to Gavarnie for a few days; rent a house (or we can recommend a pleasant gite d’etape) and day hike it up. If you’re game for a longer trip, spend three or ten (or more!) days around the Haute-Pyrénées, stringing together Gavarnie, Vignemale, the Pont d’Espange and Lac de Gaube. And if you’re really lucky, quit your job and spend two months seeing the whole darn thing at the speed of human perception. I promise: you won’t regret a single minute.